Half Persian 3-in-1, 4-in-1 and DragonBack Tutorial

The chain maille HP (Half Persian) weaves are intriguing and DragonBack is exciting!  Well, at least that’s my opinion.  How a person can take the small rings and make such a densely-woven piece of jewelry was amazing to me.  Welcome to the HP world!

Half Persian 3in1, 4in1 and DragonBack Tutorial

I know that HP has the reputation of being difficult, but it really isn’t — at least not without a little help in the very beginning (which of course I provide).  Then like most weaves, once you have the rhythm, it’s not all that hard at all!  There are lots of very detailed photos to show you what ring goes where.

(Note to anyone reading this post on Google Translate — this ebook is written in English.)

What’s in the Tutorial?

We’ll start out with the easiest of the weaves — the HP3in1.  With a couple of tips in the very beginning on how to start the weave, it becomes a whole lot easier!

Once you have the hang of that weave, time to move onto the HP 4in1.  This is a beautiful, very dense weave.  Once again I provide two different ways to start out the weave to make things that much easier!

Do you want to double your fun?  How about a doubled HP 4in1!  It’s actually pretty easy, and it’s reversible in a way that can give you two different looks.

               DragonBack Bracelet

We’ll finish up with DragonBack, which is a weave that is rather unusual and not often seen.  It, too, is a dense weave, and it makes a very substantial piece of jewelry.  Not to mention an absolutely gorgeous one!  But please note — DragonBack and the more commonly-seen DragonScale are not the same weave.  In this ebook I teach you DragonBack.

With these weaves, I demonstrate each weave in at least two different color rings, so you can more easily see how the weave is put together.  I also show some common mistakes, how to recognize them quickly and how to fix them.

There’s lots in the ebook. It’s 37 pages and has 79 photos, so you have a lot of instructions and plenty of close-ups. The photo at the top of the page shows all the weaves you’ll find in this ebook tutorial.  This ebook is in PDF form, and is just a little over 1.6 MB in size.

Purchase the Tutorial

The ebook is just $6, which is a small amount for everything you get, especially with the super-close-up photos — which many times I show multiple angles so you are sure where to put that next ring!

You can buy the ebook securely through the link below.  All major credit cards are accepted.  Just as an FYI, it does go through the PayPal interface.  You will get a link for an immediate download — and then you’re on your way!

Add to Cart View Cart

Thanks so much for reading this far, and happy maille-ing!

 

Quick Guide to Czech Bead Shapes – Two Hole Beads

Two hole beads have come a long way since I bought my first tube of SuperDuo beads.  Now when it comes to “playtime”, we have all kinds of options.  You can use them by themselves, or along with your favorite seed or other beads.  Want even more fun?  Mix different sizes and shapes!

Just a Few Two Hole Czech Beads

When shopping for these beads, you’ll typically see them as “Czech seed beads” or “Czech beads” or “CzechMates”.   Supposedly the sizes of the CzechMates are more standardized, so they work well together — they used to be just 6mm on the longest side.  However, there are other sizes in the CzechMate family now, so the lines are getting blurred.

I was originally making this one large post, but then I realized how very long it was!  So, I am splitting this into three posts — two holes, one hole and three of more holes.  (I’ll link them as soon as I have the other posts up.)

This post will be about the various two-hole shapes that are out there, with their sizes.  I’ll list them in alphabetic order.

  • Amos par Puca:  These are pear-shaped beads, with the two holes running through the sides.  5mm x 8mm.
  • Arcos par Puca:  Three holes, these are crescent-shaped, with the holes running along the side of the bead.  Size is 5mm x 10mm.
  • Bar:  Two holes, these are typically used as a spacer.  The beads resemble a flattened oval, with the holes running horizontally.  Size is 2mm x 6mm.
  • Baroque Cabochon:  Two holes.  This is a cabochon shape, but the curved top has a baroque pearl kine of look.  The two holes are parallel through the bottom.  7mm diameter at the bottom.
  • Bi-Bo:  These are similar to SuperDuo beads, but the centers are concave instead of convex.  Approximately 5.5mm x 3mm in size.
  • Brick:  Similar to Bar beads, but these are more rectangular.  The size is 3mm x 5mm.
  • Cabochon:  Two holes.  These beads have flat backs and a domed top.  They kind of remind me of gumdrops!  4.5mm x 6mm.  I’ve also seen them in a 7mm diameter.
  • Carrier:  Two holes.  New to the market (at the time of this writing), they are much larger than the standard two-hole beads.  They are more pillow-shaped — thinner on the ends, thicker across the middle.  Intriguing, as I’ve yet to buy and try them.  They are 9mm x 17mm.
  • Crescent: Two holes.  Similar to Arcos par Puca, but the holes are on the face of the bead, instead of through the side.  2mm x 10mm in size.
  • Dagger:  Two holes or one hole, these are very much like regular dagger beads.  5mm x 16mm.
  • DiamondDuo:  Two hole beads, these are diamond-shaped.  One side is flat, and the other is lightly faceted.   5mm x 8mm.
  • DiscDuo:  Two holes.  These are flat lentil-ish, bit with the holes through the narrower side of the bead.  Approximately 4mm x 6mm.
  • GemDuo:  Very much like the DiamondDuo, but the side that isn’t flat has more of a rounded profile, as opposed to faceted.  Approximately 8mm x 5mm.
  • Half Moon:  Similar to the Crescent beads, but instead of having a curve on both sides, the curve is on one side, while the other is flat.  They are also a bit smaller in size.  The holes are on the face of the bead.  4mm x 8mm.

    Bar, Brick and Rulla

    SuperDuo, MiniDuo, Twin and Bi-Bo

  • HoneyComb:  These beads have the two holes runningthrough the narrower side of the bead.  Both the top and bottom are flat.  And of course, they are six-sided and look like a honeycomb!  3mm x 6mm.
  • HoneyComb Jewel:  The same as the regular two-hole HoneyComb, but these are faceted on one side.  Roughly 4mm x 6mm in size (the facets make it a little bit thicker).
  • Ios par Puca:  Very similar to the Bar beads, they also have a rounded top and bottom, but with straight sides.  Size is 2.5mm x 5.5mm.
  • IrisDuo:  Two holes.  These are a smooth marquise in shape, and the holes are parallel through the sides.  4mm x 7mm.
  • Kite:  Two holes. Similar to the DiamondDuo, but these have more of a kite shape than a diamond shape.  5mm x 9mm.
  • Kheops par Puca:  Interesting triangle bead.  Two holes, which run vertically from base to tip.  Both top and bottom are flat.  Size is 3mm x 6mm.
  • Lentil:  Two holes.  These have a puffed disc shape, and the holes are on the flatter sides.  Size is 3mm x 6mm.
  • MiniDuo:  Two holes, these are like SuperDuos, just a little smaller.  Same shape, but the size is 2mm x 4mm.
  • Nib-Bit:  Two holes.  These remind me of flattened gumdrops on steroids, LOL.  Think of them as a very tall cabochon, but instead of the holes being at the bottom of the bead, they are parallel through the sides.  5mm x 6mm.
  • PaisleyDuo:  These are paisley-shaped as you might imagine.  The top and bottom are flat, and the holes run parallel though the sides.  Because the top and bottom are flat, they can be used as both right facing and left-facing (i.e., which direction the tail points).  5mm x 8mm.
  • Piggy:  Lentil beads, but instead of the holes being even spaced on either side, one is in the center and the other is off to the side.  They are also slightly larger, with a size of 4mm x 8mm.
  • Pyramid:  Think of these as a pyramid, except instead of having only 6 facets, these have 6 facets.  The holes are parallel through the bottom.  12mm.
  • RounDuo:  Two holes with a slightly off-round shape (which you may not really notice unless you put them next to some really round beads, like glass pearls).  Size is 5mm.
  • Rulla:  Two holes, these are like Bar beads, but rounded on the front and back.  The sides that have the holes (which run horizontally) are flattened.  Size is 3mm x 5mm.
  • Silky:  These are two hole tile-shaped beads, flat on one side and with a “puff” on the other.  The holes on this bead run diagonally.  4mm x 6mm.

    Stud (Pyramid), Silky and Tile

    ZoliDuo Beads, Left and Right

  • Stud:  Two holes, with one flat side and the other with four facets, meeting up to a gently rounded point.  I’ve seen these in both 6mm and 8.5mm x 12mm sizes, but the 12mm size is most common.
  • SuperDuo: Two-holes, these are probably the best known and most popular of the two hole beads.  Somewhat of a tapered oval, gently rounded with a slight “pinch” in the center.  2mm x 5mm.
  • Super Kheops par Puca:  These are the regular Kheops par Puca, but closer to a pyramid-type bead.  6mm.
  • Tile:  These are flat square beads, with the two holes running horizontally.  Size is 3mm x 6mm.
  • Triangle:  Two holes.  These are flat, thin beads, with the holes at the bottom.   2mm x 6mm.
  • Twin:  Two holes.  Very much like the SuperDuo, but a little more rounded and every so slightly thicker.  2.5mm x 5mm.  It’s easy to mistake these for SuperDuos.
  • ZoliDuos:  These are paisley-shaped, like the PaisleyDuos. The difference is that the ZoliDuos have one side that’s flat and one that is rounded.   In any case, because both sides are’t flat, they come in both a right side and a left side — there is definitely a difference in the way the tail points, so when you buy these, make sure to get both left and right versions.  5mm x 8mm.

These are the ones that either I have, or at least have seen at the time of this writing.  There are even more out there, because new ones seem to pop up each day.  And I have undoubtedly missed some on this list!

Interested in how to use these beads in projects?  Check out my Youtube playlist for two-hole beads!

Gemduo 8x5mm Czech Glass 2-hole Diamond shape beads Matubo 30 Beads U-Pick

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Gemduo 8x5mm Czech Glass 2-hole Diamond shape beads Matubo 30 Beads U-Pick

$1.49
End Date: Monday Apr-30-2018 1:32:14 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $1.49
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Gemduo 8x5mm Czech Glass 2-hole Diamond shape beads Matubo 30 Beads U-Pick

$1.49
End Date: Monday Apr-30-2018 1:32:14 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $1.49
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Gemduo 8x5mm Czech Glass 2-hole Diamond shape beads Matubo 30 Beads U-Pick

$1.49
End Date: Monday Apr-30-2018 1:32:14 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $1.49
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Gemduo 8x5mm Czech Glass 2-hole Diamond shape beads Matubo 30 Beads U-Pick

$1.39
End Date: Monday Apr-30-2018 1:32:14 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $1.39
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Get Wired Up! Wrapping, Knitting, Weaving and More

I’ve enjoyed working with wire for many years — in fact, it’s what drew me into making jewelry in the first place!  I started with wire work (also known as wire wrapping), then moved onto chain maille, then viking knit, wire crochet and now wire weaving.

So which is my favorite?  Hard to choose for sure!  In fact, I don’t know that I can choose a favorite, other than to say whichever I feel like working on is my favorite, LOL.

Wrapping Versus Weaving – Is There a Difference?

This was actually the very first wire weaving bracelet I ever made. Turned out much better than I had expected. 😀

Some people say there is no difference — that both are just manipulating wire into different shapes.  Me, I think there is a difference.  When I started with the wire wrapping, it was all about wrapping it around an object.  Wire wasn’t made into shapes for the sake of the wire, but to capture something.

Wire weaving, on the other hand, features the wire.  There may be a bead or cabochon involved, like in the photo to the right, the real star of the show is the weaving.

There are plenty of patterns for the weaving, involving from two to a zillion base wires.  OK, maybe not a zillion, but the bracelet in the photo ended up using 8 base wires in places.

If you’re interested more in manipulating wire, here’s my Youtube playlist on wirework of all kinds.

Viking Knit

I did (and still do) find viking knit very intriguing.  I can’t knit a darned thing with yarn, but I discovered that wire was much easier – for me, at any rate.

Most of the time, viking knit is the means and the end — the wire is very definitely the star.  There may be beads incorporated into the jewelry like in the photo to the left, but the emphasis is on the wire knitting.

And similar to wire weaving, there are different patterns that one can use to create jewelry.  Single knit and double knit are the most popular, though.

Viking Knit Jewelry Embellishments

But…if you are interested in something a with a little more integrated, you can do more.  How much more?  Take a look at the image on the right.

In this bracelet, the viking knit shares the stage with beads.  Not just  pearls, but also seed beads.

In addition to single knit and double knit, triple knit is also an option.  It does make the chain stiffer, but it is quite dense and lovely.

There is also a layered knit which is kind of cool.

If you’d like more info on some more advanced viking knit, check out my ebook tutorial.

Wire Crochet

This is something I’ve only really dabbled in.  I like the freedom it provides — the technique is quite organic in nature.  Up to now, I’ve primarily worked with varying the size of  the stitches within the project and adding random beads.  I think my next challenge will be to regulate the size of the stitches and use the same beads within the project.  If I can get it worked out, I’ll set up a video for it.

Dragonscale Bracelet, Sterling Silver

Chain Maille

Oh, I’ve got lots of posts on chain maille, and even a second site devoted to it — chainmaillejewelrypatterns.com.  I get a kick out of chain maille, and it makes for some gorgeous jewelry.

When I started out with chain maille, sterling silver jump rings were relatively inexpensive — silver was around $7/ounce.  I got lots and lots of rings, in all kinds of sizes and gauges.  And I set my fingers to maille-ing.

The photo to the left is a pattern called “Dragonscale”.  The weave is quite dense, and this particular bracelet was made with sterling silver — talk about substantial!  I did sell it and I kind of wish I hadn’t, seeing as I’ve not made another such bracelet again.  Well, I take that back…I started another one, but with copper wire, and I haven’t finished it.

I’m also  getting ready to publish another ebook for HP 3-in-1 and HP 4-in-one.  And in that ebook, I have a pattern called “Dragonback”.  That weave is also pretty substantial, but this time I did it in copper.  (Once I have it finished, I’ll put a link here.)

Getting Started With Wire

If you’re interested in starting to work with wire, here’s what I would recommend.  And the first would be to use copper wire — it’s inexpensive and soft on the hands.  Well, maybe “soft” isn’t quite the right term, but it’s much easier to manipulate than brass, bronze or sterling.

I’d recommend a few different wire gauges to start — 18, 20, 22, 26 and 28 are good choices.  The 26 and 28 gauges are great for viking knit and crochet.  Most of the wire weaving I do are in gauges 22, 26 and 28.  However, the heavier gauges are better for parts of the project that are more load-bearing.

Chain maille — again, I suggest copper as your introduction.  And I will refer you to my free guide for chain maille rings for a more in-depth discussion for what you should look for in your rings.  It will help you to understand things like AR, ID and OD which are very important to your project success.

I hope this post has been helpful, and that you enjoy your journey into working with wire!